Saturday, January 3, 2015

Austrian Paul Preuss passes more than 300 route. In the first ascent of the east wall Campanile Bas

Wall climbing at NSA Blog Archive Pure Style-story ukraine climbing big walls with free climbing Part 1
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Time steadily increasing technical complexity grows the temptation to consider the development of free climbing on big walls exclusively in pursuit of styles and numbers. But this apparent depending on the numbers hide the real breakthroughs. Glimpse of the three giants of North America - Yosemitskata valley with its always xubavo time and excellent granite, diorite ruined Black Canyon ukraine Gunnison and 4346 meter Diamond of Longs Peak, beautifully ukraine illustrate the wide range of possibilities.
Of different ideas and styles of solo and team onsite to numerous sieges forges dream of fair play, undergoing major free-climbing walls. ukraine The result of trying to rationalize the creative ukraine process of free climbing in boguola has the following climbs in time.
The German Herman Von Barth made numerous ascents in North Tyrol, mostly ukraine solo route like "Barth Chimney" 4+ category of difficulty (scale UIAA) of Untersberg, Bertechsgarden.
Alexandre Burzhene with your friends - the guide Benedict Vene and British "pioneer" Albert Memari make the first ascent of the rock tower Grepon. The legendary rock fissure "Mummery Crack" .Vodach a difficult passage was Benedict Vene.
Titus Pyats made the first solo ascent of the north wall of the "Punta Emma", including the section ukraine "Piaz Crack" with 5 category. This climbing Pyats forms the basis of all solo ascents, it was the first crossing passages ukraine in this category, which was necessary for a targeted preparation.
The first group climbing 650 meters south wall of Mormolada, involving Frenchman Brighton Beatrice Tomoson and guides Michel Bettega and Bortoro Zagonel. Significant difficulty represent a smooth transition fireplace (first ukraine solo crossed by Luigi Rizzi in earlier experience).
Austrian Paul Preuss passes more than 300 route. In the first ascent of the east wall Campanile Basso, he passes key passage solo Category 5, then to demonstrate control of the situation, down again from there. Most ascents of Paul Preuss in solo style (he was one of the pioneers of this style). Most of his rise in solo style, which does not use any insurance when crossing the difficult passages. His method ukraine and descent with climbing route itself is not necessary in the climbing community, the huge risk and danger of this kind of climbs are not seen and not long after, in such a climb, he died.
Hans Duelfer makes powerful breakthrough: ukraine its liaison Walter von Bernoulli pass 350-foot west wall of the Cima Grande, taking only two wedges and two carabiner for passage of a Category 5. In the same year Duelfer makes impressive ascent of 6 category from one tower to another on the south wall of the "Torre del Diavolo". ukraine Duelfer apply a new technique for crossing the crevices, which is used today.
1000 meter north-western wall "Civetta", 5+ is passed clear of Germans and Gustav Emil Zolidel Letenbauer for a record 15 hours. Considering the sheer cliffs and the length of the passages along the route that was probably the hardest climb in the world for this period.
Pierre Alain after targeted ukraine training in Fontainebleau in connection with Raymond Laninzhe climbed purely on the north wall of the Petit Dru. The route has 6 category of difficulty with length of 850 meters. This has been long awaited climbing Drew, for this period rock needle represent one of the problems in the Alps.
Austrian Hermann Buhl soloed clean (predinmo 6 cat.) 850 meter route Cassin ukraine Rout in north-eastern wall of the Piz Badile for 4.30 hours, down the north ridge 5.5 800 meters and returned with a bicycle on the road and falls asleep river "Inn". With this ascent Herma Bull laid the foundations of speed solo ascents that are relevant ukraine to a much later period of evoyutsiyata mountaineers.
British Joe Brown and Don Uilans ukraine pass west wall of "Blaitier". Their itinerary includes a section Fissure Brown 6+ cat. difficulty. The passage is a wide open crack "ofluid" in which provision was impossible.
Frank Seshrer and Wally Reed pass clean "East Buttress" (7- 13 pitches) on El Capitan. This was the first ascent, which passes the mythical ukraine 6 category.
Direktisimata the northern kotrafors "Middle Cathedral" (7 kat.17 ropes) Seshrer Frank and Eric Beck p

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